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「別客氣,快吃吧。」修抓起一枚杏果往嘴裡一塞。「嘖嘖,甜美極了 。」「我寧可吃另一只籃子裡的杏果。」我說。「一路上你猛踢這小男孩的屁股,搞不好,他會下毒哦。」我們坐在辦公桌吃果子的當兒,另一場風暴發生了 。雷聲隆隆響徹整個河谷。這回,大雨持續下個不停,從窗口眺望出去,只見河水波濤洶湧,群山籠罩在白茫茫的嵐霧中。我忽然記起小時候,下雨天,我從海濱一家旅館窗口眺望出去,心裡感到十分溫暖,卻又覺得無比淒涼。這種感覺我已經遺忘很久了 。 村中父老紛紛趕來探望我們。禁衛軍老隊長陪伴一位老漢,走進房間來。這位老先生用指甲花,產於亞熱帶地區的水蠟樹類植物,開白色或玫瑰色之花,其葉可製染料把鬍子染成紅褐色,神情顯得非常矍鑠,身體看來十分硬朗。跟在這兩位老人身後的,是一個滿臉橫肉、模樣像職業殺手的男子。他那副裝扮,讓我想起我們在巴里島河谷上游遇見的那個頭戴瓜皮小帽的怪客。老漢十分健談。六十年前的事情,他都記得很淸楚。「偉大的阿富汗回敎君王攻打我們時,我才十五歲。他分三路進軍,浩浩蕩蕩。我們奮勇抵抗,使用弓箭、長矛、刀劍和我們手頭上僅有的幾支洋槍。(他把「槍」稱作「炮」,我猜,那時他們可能擁有幾門老舊的加農炮雙方實力太過懸殊,最後我們還是被打敗了 。我和部落中的許多壯丁被押解到喀布爾當奴隸,我在那兒待了 二十五年。最初,還年輕時,我在宮廷當差,後來轉任侍衛,直到老君王的兒子新君王在喀拉,歌什被剌殺。這位新君王哈比布拉在艾林格爾河谷下游打獵,有一天睡在帳篷裡,被人謀殺。我猜,那個時候他的侍衛都溜到外面尋樂去了 。〕「君王駕崩後,我才獲准返回闊別多年的故鄉。」「您還記得,你們族人皈依回敎之前的生活嗎?那時你們是卡菲爾人,對不對?」「那時我們常常釀酒、獵熊。那些年頭我們造了很多殺孽啊!年輕時,我是游泳好手,但如今回想起來卻覺得沒啥了不起。現在我們不再釀酒了。」老人家幽幽嘆息一聲。 看來,回敎傳入卡菲里斯坦所造成的影響,摧毀了卡菲爾人的傳統生活方式,其毀滅性,實不亞於宗敎改革家諾克斯領導的基督敎設計運動,對蘇格蘭所產生的衝擊談到殺戮的事,那個一臉橫肉的男子趁機挿嘴。現在我們才曉得,他曾在阿富汗一位前任首相身邊充當侍衛,長達十一 一年。 「你們進入紐里斯坦,有沒有申請准證?」 「哪一種准證呀?」 「書面許可。」 「有。」 「在這兒,我們可以開槍射殺未申請准證、擅自闖入的外地人。」他笑嘻嘻地說,然後吿訴我們一個令人毛骨悚然的故事。


一個阿富汗男子和一個美國女孩結婚,然後雙雙私奔到紐里斯坦,尋求庇護,結果兩個人都死得好慘。聽了這個辦公家具故事,我一點也不感到驚訝;在我看來,紐里斯坦實在不是私奔的好地方。「這個傢伙很邪門,講起話來讓人心裡發毛!」修回頭對我說。透過一種非常繁瑣的交易方式,看起來臉色蒼白的阿布杜向村民購買一隻雞,配上野生洋葱和杏果,一齊燉煮。如今回想起來,這種亂七八糟的食物實在不是人吃的,但那個時候我們卻吃得津津有味。 飯後,爲了逃避那群闖進門來、在我們的行李堆中東翻西尋的好奇村民,在兩個血氣方剛的小夥子陪伴下,我們冒雨到屋外散步。這兩個傢伙長相粗野,卻很愛打扮,不但把眼睛染成紅色,而且還用一種名字叫「銻」的金屬物質把眼皮搽成銀白色,模樣兒看起來十分怪誕。他們吿訴我們,他們的名字叫施約克和帕魯克這兩個名字怪怪的,我們應該沒聽錯吧^但他們也承認,他們還有一個比較正統的回敎名字。 施約克和帕魯克長得十分健壯,渾身彷彿有用不完的精力,令人厭煩。一路走,他們一路撿起大石頭,四處亂扔,有時縱身跳到桑樹上,蹲在枝葉間向我們挑戰。長途跋涉,我們早已經筋疲力竭,哪裡還有力氣跟他們比賽爬樹和扔石頭。跟這兩個活蹦亂跳的小夥子相比,我們簡直就是兩具行屍走肉。 整個村子空蕩蕩,街上不見一個行人。蘇美島村中婦女,不分老少,聽說我們這兩個英國男子來到村裡,早已經躱得無影無蹤,街上再也看不到三五成群、聚在一塊玩耍的小姑娘。樹叢間,好幾個白衣身影飄忽飛掠,宛如幽靈一般^佇立在普沙爾鎭屋頂上俯視我們的就是這些人。他們是來自西部山谷、目前在蘭姆古爾首府回敎神學院就讀的學生。本地人管他們叫「曼達雷士」。 就在這當口 ,其中一個學生出現在我們眼前。他噘著嘴唇,睜著兩隻烏溜溜、小鹿一般的眼睛,鬼趕似地拚命跑,身後緊緊跟隨著我們那位鼻梁上有一道刀疤的朋友阿庫特斯。轉眼間,兩個人都消失在高大茂密的胡桃樹叢中,再也看不見了 。 稍晚時,禁衛軍老隊長前來探望我們。他打扮得非常帥氣.,身上穿著雙排釦斜紋布大衣,頭上戴著一頂鑲嵌寶石的圓筒形平頂帽,帽上纏繞著一條頭巾。陪他一塊前來的,是我們在河谷上游遇見的那位模樣很像倫敦室內設計生意人的騎士 ,他頭戴深褐色軟帽,身穿暗紅色絲質襯衫,足登貝沙瓦爾城製造的涼鞋,手持卡賓槍。我們接過這支卡賓槍,把玩一番。很快的,消息就傳揚開去,村中的男子紛紛帶著他們的槍械來到老隊長家,讓我們觀賞。有人帶來點三〇三口徑李恩菲德步槍。


這種來福槍和英國陸軍使用的制式步槍款式相同,上面印著看起來正確的網路行銷編號和戳記,但它卻是在阿富汗邊疆城鎭科哈特的部落軍火廠製造的(這支步槍的槍機倒是眞貨)。有人拿來一支普魯士步槍地人管它叫「德雷西」槍身上鐫刻著出廠日期一八六六年,彈藥筒和引爆裝置都非常簡陋。展示在我們面前的,還有一支鑲嵌黃銅的俄製長管來福槍和一支加拿大羅斯步槍這些槍械的彈藥到底來自何處?這是一個謎。村民們帶來的槍都破舊不堪,尤其是槍管。 「阿富汗政府不是禁止你們私藏槍械嗎?」修問道。「沒錯。」大夥兒齊聲回答,口氣有點曖昧。「可是,在紐里斯坦,土匪實在太多。」除了在高山上的夏季牧地幹活,偶爾背著乳酪到外地販賣,村中的男子平日無所事事。田裡的工作^除了犁地^大部分都是婦女在做。「秋天,作物收成後,我們把馬兒從高山牧場帶下來,玩一種名叫『布茲錫』的遊戲。」村民吿訴我們。「兩隊人馬爭奪一隻頭顱被砍掉的山羊,競爭非常激烈哦!」說著,大夥兒咧開嘴巴吃吃笑起來。「不玩這種遊戲時,我們就去打獵。冬天, 我們就睡覺。」「在高山牧場,」村民繼續說,「我們製作奶油和凝乳,放在河中貯藏,需要時才撈起來帶到山下河谷中,把它煮熟,然後背到外地去。」這些日子,我們一直感到很困惑:我們常常看到腳夫背著乳酪製品在路上走動,卻從來不曾看見有人吃這種東西。一路歇腳打尖,也從沒有人拿出牛奶或奶油奉客。我們想買也買不到。 「你們背到哪裡啊?」我們問村民。 「山裡生產的穀物,不夠製作麵包。我們背著乳酪,穿越阿拉育隘口 ,沿著盤吉西爾河谷,一路走到古巴哈爾鎭,跟那兒的農夫交換穀物。」辛辛苦苦把乳酪背下山來,又把穀物背上山去,長途跋涉,就是爲了 一點穀物?簡直不可思議!他們爲什麼不乾脆在高山牧場把乳酪煮熟?「背乳酪的腳夫有aluminum casting酬勞嗎?」我們問。「每個腳夫背四西爾(相當於六十四磅)乳酪,每一西爾的酬勞是三十阿富汗尼。 這段路程不算長。有時我們也把乳酪背到喀什卡爾。」乍聽之下,我們還以爲他們說的是「喀什噶爾」,即中國新疆省西部的城市「疏附」。「喀什噶爾是在中國!」我們說。一名腳夫背著六十磅重的天然酵素,翻山越嶺,千里迢迢走到中國,這對我們來說簡直難以想像。 「他們說的是阿富汗的齊特拉爾省。」老隊長說。「我們村子的人管齊特拉爾叫喀什 卡爾。這段路程很長哦從普沙爾鎭出發,沿著布古齊河一路往東走,穿越蘇安隘口 ,進入坎提瓦爾人的居留地,再沿著卡尼托內目一耳河谷,進入普雷松人的居留地,繼續往東走到卡尼托河的源頭,穿越穆拉密隘口和帕普魯克隘口 ,走到巴什古爾河畔,然後北上,一直走到狄瓦尼,巴巴鎭這個城鎭又名「阿瑪德,狄瓦納」-最後抵達喀什卡爾。」 「這段路程要走幾天啊?」我們問。


「兩天到坎提瓦爾地區,兩天半到帕普魯克隘口 ,兩天到狄瓦尼,巴巴鎭,然後穿越瑟米涅克隘口 ,再走兩天就到喀什卡爾了 。」「在喀什卡爾,你們用乳酪交換什麼東西?」「帽子。」大夥兒指著盤中的麥片粥說。「不可思議!」修回頭對我說。「走九天的路去買幾頂帽子,來回一趟就是十八天。他們爲什麼不用自己的紡織機製作帽子呢?」碰到好天氣,村中婦女就把紡織機搬到門外,製作一種褐色布料,用來縫製男人的褲子。 「你如果想戴圓頂硬禮帽,你不會自己動手製作,你會去倫敦的洛克帽子專賣店買一頂。」我說。「這些人很講究關鍵字行銷,老遠去買一頂帽子。」「傳統上,我們一直都戴喀什卡爾的帽子。」老隊長說。「向來都是如此。」「你們的靴子在什麼地方買呢?」我們又問。村民們穿的是紅色的查穆斯靴,蘭姆古爾河流域的居民管它叫「烏札爾」。 「以前,」一位村民用曖昧的口氣回答,彷彿提到一個邪惡的時代,「我們的靴子是 家中的奴隸製作的。現在,我們到巴什古爾河畔的卡姆德什鎭購買。」我想問他們,現在還奉行以前的宗敎習俗嗎?但修卻提出一連串他最感興趣的die casting問題。跟盤吉西爾河流域的塔吉克人不同的是,這兒的百姓畜養牛羊和其他牲畜,不必繳稅。他們只繳土地稅。 「每一賈里布,相當於四分之一英畝)的土地,得繳一 一阿富汗尼的稅金。」村民吿訴我們。接著,我們提出兵役的問題。村民回答:「每兩百個壯丁只有五個被徵召入伍,但很多人自願當兵。我們紐里斯坦人一向都是當兵的。」在喀布爾當過奴隸的老人起身吿辭。臨走前,他對修說,「請吿訴你的夥伴(他指的是我),明天村中會有一位老人過世,他可以帶照相機和筆記本來參加葬禮。」那晚我們睡得很不好。我們的充氣床墊漏了氣,只好躺在硬梆梆的地板上熬過一夜。 最糟的是,我們發現我們兩人都罹患痢疾,一整晚都在瀉肚子。天方破曉,阿布杜,莫塔勒布和阿魯克就過來叫醒我們,向我們兜售他們的帽子。兩眼惺忪、舌頭打結,我們勉強爬起床來跟他們討價還價。他們想用帽子跟我們交換東西,可是,他們對修,卡勒斯從英國帶來的自助洗衣卻絲毫不感興趣,反而看上了他的望遠鏡。他們翻山越嶺,跋涉到喀什卡爾鎭買來這些圓筒形布帽,在他們看來,一頂帽子絕對値得一副望遠鏡。爲了逃避這種拖拖拉拉、漫無止境的討價還價,我們走出屋子,跟隨一 一十個穿扮非常體面光鮮的男士 ,到村中參加一場葬禮。一行人悠哉遊哉,遛達著,慢呑呑朝向村子走去。婦女們彎著腰,三五成群在田裡幹活,或背著重達四喀布里西爾的乳酪,搖搖晃晃從我們身邊走過。她們把乳酪背到村外一座大火爐上烹煮。


「今天要宰殺一頭閹牛。」馬夫阿布杜,基雅士吿訴我們。村中瀰漫著越南新娘介紹的歡樂氣氛,根本不像一場葬禮。河邊那條小路十分陡峭崎嶇。我穿著運動鞋^爬了幾天的山,我那雙腳現在只能穿這種鞋子。恍恍惚惚走著走著,我一腳踩進路上一個水坑裡,整個人摔下懸崖,卻奇蹟似地落在一座岩棚上,毫髮無傷。這塊凸出的石頭,距離懸崖上的道路約莫十呎,底下五十呎的地方就是河流。一 一十四張臉孔,大部分蓄著鬍鬚,從懸崖上俯望下來,一時間竟不敢相信我還活著。就在大夥兒合力把我拉上來的時候,一位回敎師尊走了過來。 「他們不可以參加葬禮!」他伸出一根手指,氣咻咻指著我們,一 口氣把全世界的基督敎徒都罵光了 。我們沒有力氣跟他爭辯,只好離開送葬的隊伍,踩著樫柳樹幹搭成的小橋渡過河流,坐在一株胡桃樹下。在這兒,我們盡情享受難得的片刻寧謐。空中成群蝴蝶翩躧飛舞.,蜂雀蝴蝶、黃斑蝶、小藍蝶、苧胥蝶……修望著漫天飛翔的蝴蝶,一面回憶兒時在seo書本上看到的蝴蝶圖片,一面呼喚牠們的名字。在我們身後橡樹叢中,一隻啄木鳥正在鑽洞。一對翠鳥比翼雙飛,正朝向河上游飛去。河對岸有一座小村莊,名叫魯斯塔甘。它孤懸在峭壁上,房子都用同一種石材砌成,遠遠看起來,整座村莊就像石壁上的一個個洞穴。 我們躱藏在路旁一顆大石頭後面,悄悄窺望路上的行人^在紐里斯坦,我們難得有機會觀察別人而不被別人觀察。在路上走動的,幾乎全是婦女,她們背著堆滿木柴的三角形籃筐,看起來非常沉重,雙手一逕顫抖不停。年紀稍長的婦女全都梳著中分的髮型;年輕的姑娘額前垂著劉海,顯得十分俏麗。這兒的婦女從幾歲起就開始衰老,實在很難說,像路上行走的那些滿臉憔悴、形容枯槁的婦人,也許只有一 一十五、六歲。 在路旁樹下坐了 一會,我們回到普沙爾鎭。街上空寂不見人影,只有幾個巫婆模樣的老太太和一群小娃兒。鎭上的房屋全都大門深鎖,我們只好走進一棟沒有門的低矮翻譯社石屋。那是一間公共澡堂,裡頭有一道泉水,注入橫放在地扳上的一根樹心挖空的樹幹,每隔一段距離,樹幹上就有一個用銼刀挖出的圓形坑洞當作水盆。這樣的澡堂讓我們看得心裡發毛,因爲使用最後一個盆子的人,他所得到的水,全都是前面幾個盆子流下來的髒水。過了好久,參加葬禮的普沙爾鎭男人才一路晃蕩著,慢呑呑走回鎭上來。這天他們總共宰殺三頭閹牛.,大夥兒朝天空開槍,向死者致敬。這可是一個大日子,値得大張旗鼓慶祝一番。


男人們在喪宴上大吃烤肉,整張臉孔油膩膩,但成群結夥高昂闊步走在路上,卻顯得非常威風,引人注目。他們身上穿著條紋和格子襯衫,外加一件歐洲式背心(大部分是紅色),襟上綴著幾十顆珍珠鈕釦,胸前掛著各種神符和字跡已經模糊的老舊勳章。勳章可能來自印度,但已經沒有人記得它的來歷。「越南新娘仲介父親把勳章傳給我。」大夥兒都這麼說。這群男子頭上戴著齊特拉爾省(喀什卡爾)製造的帽子,頂端綴著一顆顆彩色珍珠。 他們的脖子上紮著紅領巾,顯得十分花俏,腳上穿的綁腿,卻是用黑色和紫色的繩索纏. 繞。他們腰下都繫著一條褪色的藍棉褲。看見我帶著照相機走過來,大夥兒立刻擺起姿態面對鏡頭。這個鎭甸的男人非常虛榮,就像一群孔雀。我一連拍了好幾張團體照。返回亞斯納爾村老隊長家的路上,我們遇到兩個容貌怪異的中年人,他們的鬍子是金黃色的,臉上的皮膚十分蒼白,斑斑駁駁的,就像我們前些時日遇到的回敎神學院學走過郯印什山生,他們身穿白衣,但款式不太一樣。他們伸出濕答答的手跟我們握一握,但當我舉起照相機要替他們拍照時,這兩個人卻扯起嗓門哇哇大叫,鬼趕似地跑下山坡,逃之夭夭。「該逃命的是我們」這兩個怪客消失後,修才對我說。「我們在阿富汗染上各種各樣的疾病,這是最後一種疾病了 。」「什麼疾病啊?」「麻瘋病!這兩個人是痳瘋病人。」我們這支婚友社探險隊,每一個成員現在都罹患痢疾,只有馬夫西爾,穆罕默德例外。大夥兒猛嚼專治腹瀉的磺胺胍錠,沒想到越嚼越想拉肚子。 在玉蜀黍田中鑽來鑽去,逛了 一圈後,我們才找到眞正的原因。「你瞧,他們在溪上搭蓋的那些小茅屋。」我對修說。我們屋子外面就有一間這樣的茅屋,建築在小溪上,平常飮用的水就是從那兒汲取上來。這個小茅屋造型十分精緻美觀,修愛死它了 ,把它比作歐洲公園中的小涼亭。 「這些小茅屋有間題嗎?」「我終於發現這些小茅屋的眞正搬家用途!難怪,我們的腹瀉會越來越嚴重,一天到晚拉個不停。」「我不相信。」我吿訴他,自己去瞧一瞧吧。過了 一會,他踉踉蹌蹌走回房間來,臉上的神情十分怪異,像笑又像哭。 「你說的是眞的!但我還是不明白,你只喝消毒過的水,可是,跟我們一樣,你仍是一天到晚拉肚子。」「阿布杜用這種水煮湯給我們喝。」「湯是煮沸的呀,水裡的病菌全都死光了 。」「這裡的水,你必須用大火煮很久很久,才能把病菌全都殺死!那些病菌就像這裡的兒童一樣強悍,你必須使用硫酸來消毒。」「我們不能再待下去了!」修說。


「明天上路,離開這個鬼地方。」在蘭姆古爾河谷出生的孩子,如何熬過他們生命中的頭五年,然後存活下來?這永遠是個謎。這會兒,月老看見幾個小孩爬到屋頂平台上戲耍。他們大都很瘦弱,一副營養不良的模樣,膽子卻不小,竟敢沿著平台邊緣搖搖晃晃互相追逐,不時伸出子彈一般渾圓的小頭顱,頂撞對方的肚腹,一不小心,就會摔到平台外,掉落在尖峭的岩石上。 岩石和屋頂相距十五呎,若是摔落下來,一條小命就報銷了 。如果他們每天在平台上嬉 戲,這個城鎭的兒童死亡率必定很高,然而,在鎭上停留那幾天,我們卻不曾看見孩子 從屋頂摔落下來。看他們那副痩巴巴營養不良的模樣,我們實在很難想像,這些孩子長到十五歲時,會變成像他們父親那樣的壯漢或他們像母親那樣的美人。談起這個城鎭的女孩,馬夫阿布杜一時心血來潮,引述了 一則古老的諺語:「男人一生渴望擁有兩件東西一匹卡塔根(芸目)母馬和一個年輕的卡菲爾女奴。」信哉斯言。 鎭上的小孩渾身傷痕累累,大人也不例外。我們在這兒待了幾天,身上滿是被蒼蠅叮咬所造成的腫瘡。這種黃背蒼蠅雖然細小,卻非常兇悍,牠們在我們身上鑽洞,替更大、更髒的蒼蠅建立據點。就像一群在太陽下出擊的殺手,牠們能夠在人類身上找到一個盲點,神不知鬼不覺,飛落到大陸新娘仲介的鼻梁上。說也奇怪,這兒的蒼蠅對修,卡勒斯的鼻子特別感興趣,很快地,他的鼻梁就布滿坑洞,樣子看起來很邪門。修簡直不敢抬起頭來見人。 在村中停留的最後一夜,我花了好幾個鐘頭,跟那個長得很像倫敦商人的村民討價還價,向他購買一整套紐里斯坦男裝。跟他耗了半天,終於成交。修也跟老隊長達成一 筆交易。他用一條購自伊朗梅希德城的絲巾,外加一副撲克牌,交換俄國聖彼得堡賈登 納瓷器廠出品的兩只精美茶碗。 大夥兒討價還價的當兒,阿魯克和一個戴著紅領巾的無賴躺在陰暗的角落,互相撫摸。在衆目睽睽下,兩個男人公然摟抱在一塊卿卿我我,這副醜態我們看了都覺得很噁眺?脔外風闹心,直想嘔吐。禁衛軍老隊長實在受不了了 ,就用閱兵場的嗓門大喝一聲:「要搞就到外面搞!滾出去!」他們溜出去了 。過了 一會,脖子上纏著紅領巾的無賴跑回來,躺在房間角落呼呼大睡。紐里斯坦人有個本事,讓我們西方人覺得不可思議:不管到哪裡,不管在誰的家,他們躺下來就能入睡。 凌晨三點鐘,我們在睡夢中驚醒過來。屋子底下的田野傳出一陣衝撞聲,接著我們就聽到槍聲大作,砰!砰!砰!砰。我們跑到搬家公司屋頂平台上往下一瞧,只見整個村子亂成一團,狗兒狂吠,村民們揮舞著樹脂製成的火炬,在樹叢間奔竄吶喊。阿布杜,莫塔勒布站在他家門口台階上,舉起他那支馬丁尼丄予利步槍,一發子彈緊接著一發,朝向屋子底下的田野不斷射擊。田野中響起激烈的衝撞聲,彷彿有一群農夫在打穀似的。


「他們喊叫什麼?『伊茲』是什麼日式料理?」我問修。奔跑在田野中的村民不停喊著「伊茲!伊茲!伊茲!伊茲!」「熊!有一隻熊出現在玉蜀黍田裡。」田野中的吶喊聲忽然停歇下來,整個村子一片寂靜。「『伊茲』死了!」阿布杜,莫塔勒布向大夥兒宣布。 「眞的嗎?你何不到田中瞧瞧?」修對他說。曙光下,田中那一叢叢十一 一呎高的玉蜀黍東歪西倒,彷彿被一場颶風掃過似的。地上遺留著一些足跡,令人看了毛骨悚然。我們沒找到那隻熊。 回到屋裡,我們輾轉難眠。凌晨四點鐘,修爬起身來,在暗沉沉的房間裡跌跌撞撞 四處走動。我問他在幹什麼。「還用問嗎?收拾行囊準備上路啊。」晚一點上路又怎麼樣?也不差一兩個小時啊。我不理他,自顧自躺在溫暖的睡袋裡又睡了 一個鐘頭。紐里斯坦是很奇怪的地方:戶外到處是昆蟲,屋裡卻找不到一隻臭蟲或跳蚤。我還是心不甘情不願爬起身來,準備一早出發,不料馬夫阿布杜卻跑到河邊洗澡,在那兒待了兩個鐘頭,也許又在勾引村中的大陸新娘吧。昨天,修把他那雙靴子送去修理,現在都快八點了 ,靴子卻還沒送回來。這些出乎意料的耽擱,把修氣得直跳腳。最後,他實在忍不住了 ,就打發另一個馬夫巴達爾,汗去鞋匠家領回他的靴子,不料他去了半天也沒回來。 好不容易,大夥兒都歸隊了 ,正待出發之際,禁衛軍老隊長卻差遣一個下屬帶來一封口信。他手裡捧著一條梅希德絲巾和一副撲克牌。「老隊長夫人拒絕用茶碗交換你的絲巾和撲克牌。」信差說。然後,他湊到阿布杜耳朶旁,低聲說了幾句話。只見阿布杜臉色非常凝重。 「先生,」阿布杜向修報吿,「老隊長夫人說,如果您把她的茶碗帶出亞斯納爾村, 她決不會饒恕她丈夫。」根據羅柏森所著《與都庫什山脈的卡菲爾人》的資料-紐里斯坦 東部的瓦伊部落擁有一門加農炮。在阿布杜,莫塔勒布、一位回敎導師和他那個十歲孫子護送下,我們從普沙爾鎭出發,繼續我們的行程。這位老師平易近人,和藹可親,跟我們在蘭姆古爾河谷遇到的那些妄自尊大、對西方人充滿敵意的回敎相親導師,截然不同。我們穿過魯斯塔甘村,走下山坡,經過一座墳場。墓地上豎立著好多顆粗糙的石頭,中間擺著一張巨大的木製嬰兒床。我本想請修,卡勒斯詢問阿布杜,莫塔勒布,這究竟是不是古宗敎遺留下來的東西,但他卻一逕繃著臉孔,悶聲不響。今天早晨出發前,他碰到一連串不順心的事,這會兒心裡很不爽。內心深處,我倒是同情他的。


回敎導師和他的孫子走在前頭,引領我們。一路上,導師不時舉起手裡揩著的石彈弓,射殺在我們眼前出現的蜥蜴,把他的孫兒逗得十分開心。這位老先生玩起彈弓來,比普沙爾鎭那幫小夥子還要有看頭。魯斯塔甘村外約莫兩、三英里的宴會廳地方,一座陡峭的山谷從東方進入蘭姆古爾河。這座山谷一路延伸到庫拉姆河兩地相距約莫一天腳程。庫拉姆河的源頭,在坎提瓦爾卡提爾地區瓦納斯古爾河上游附近。「這些日子,我們跟坎提瓦爾人相處得並不好。」阿布杜,莫塔勒布說。「他們霸占河谷上游的牧草地。」莫塔勒布在這裡跟我們分手。杜爾湖总外頻從這兒走下山谷,一路上,我們看到蘭姆古爾河水被引入周遭的農田中,工程非常浩大:相比之下,盤吉西爾河谷塔吉克人的灌漑系統,就顯得簡陋許多。在蘭姆古爾河谷,灌漑溝渠一直通到農地盡頭峭壁下,然後用剖成兩半、挖空樹心的樹幹將河水引上峭壁,距離河面三十呎。這一根根樹幹用石柱支撐,看起來就像一座高架鐵路橋。峭壁另一端裝置著一套構造十分繁複的樞紐,兩、三條木製水管從那兒分岔出來。 帕特查是一座大村莊,約莫有四十間房屋,建造在一座陡峭的石脊上。們走過時,村民們紛紛爬到屋頂上觀看,然後跑下來,成群結隊跟隨我們。村外不遠處,河邊田野中矗立著一塊巨大的岩石,名叫桑格.尼維什特卡提爾語,它的名字卻是「普什特瑞爾」。岩石平滑的底部鐫刻著一段碑文,我和修都看不懂公司設立。「碑文是這樣寫的。」同行的回敎導師翻譯給我們聽.,「偉大的君王阿布杜爾,拉曼汗,格齊統治期間,回曆一三一三年(西曆一八九五年),卡菲里斯坦全境被君王征服,人民皈依眞正的、神聖的伊斯蘭敎。正義與美德終於戰勝虛妄的謊言。」導師以敎訓的口吻唸完這段碑文。 導師說,附近還有一塊碑銘。在耀眼的陽光照射下,我們實在看不淸楚,那究竟是一塊碑銘還是一塊普通的石頭。「上面寫什麼?」修詢問導師。他的起床氣已經消了 。「這段碑文是用古阿拉伯的庫菲克字母書寫的。回曆八〇〇年(西曆一三九八年),帖木兒皇帝率領大軍進攻印度,路過這裡,樹立這塊碑銘。」縱橫歐亞的蒙古戰士帖木兒或他手下的將軍,究竟有沒有來過蘭姆古爾河谷;除了阿布杜爾,拉曼樹立的那塊碑銘,這裡究竟有沒有其他碑銘存在關於這兩椿歷史公案,據越南新娘所知,迄今還沒有學者確實查考過。學者專家前來這兒實地查訪之前,第二塊碑銘的存在充其量只是一種臆測。


我們能夠確定的是,帖木兒曾自西方進軍,侵入卡菲里斯坦部分地區。他穿越山脈的方式非常新奇,他對卡菲爾人的觀感和Fine dining評論十分有趣,値得在這兒提一提根據他的自傳《帖木兒回憶錄》,一三九八年三月,他在中亞的撒馬爾干委任一位總督,留下一支衛戍部隊駐守,然後「選擇一個吉日良辰,跨上戰馬,率領大軍朝向印度斯坦進發。」在特爾梅茲,大軍利用浮橋浩浩蕩蕩渡過奧克蘇斯河,抵達盤吉西爾河谷附近的安達拉普河谷。那兒的百姓怨聲載道,紛紛向帖木兒求救:「不信眞主的卡托爾人和西雅—波什人欺壓我們,強行徵稅,若有不從,就把我們的男人殺死,把我曼杜節胡意外件們的女人和孩子賣爲奴。」爲了懲罰這些異敎徒,帖木兒把軍隊分爲兩支,一支留給兒子沙,魯克親王就是那位熱愛赫拉特城,在城中建造華美塔樓的王子;路過那兒時,我曾想替塔樓拍照,但沒有成功另一支跟隨帖木兒穿越興都庫什山,來到一個他稱爲「帕里安」的地方。經公司登記學者考證,帕里安就是今天的帕爾旺。這座城鎭位於巴吉格隘口 山腳,鄰近盤吉西爾河谷南端,我們登山之旅的起點古巴哈爾鎭。帖木兒的另一支部隊已經穿越卡瓦克隘口 ,進入盤吉西爾河谷。帖木兒在自傳中說,他派遣一萬人馬,在魯斯丹親王和一位名叫布爾漠,阿格蘭,朱吉塔爾的將軍指揮下,向西進軍,長驅直入卡菲里斯坦,征討居住在北方的西雅—波什族卡菲爾人。 帖木兒下令,大部分貴族和全體士兵必須把馬匹、駱駝和多餘的輜重田在卡瓦克隘口,跟隨他穿越「卡托爾山」。這座山脈橫亙在盤吉西爾河谷和卡菲里斯坦之間〔幾天前,我們經由查瑪爾隘口 ,翻越這座大山進入紐里斯坦。〕路況很糟。地面覆蓋著積雪,白天卻颳起熱風,山中小徑一片泥濘,帖木兒的大軍只好等到入夜後,積雪凍結時行動。卡菲爾人全都躱藏在山腰峭壁的洞窟裡,把冰雪堆集在入口處,蒙古軍隊四處搜尋,就是找不到他們的蹤影。帖木兒麾下的王公大臣,不願跟他們的馬兒分離像英國的軍官,不管走到哪裡都隨身攜帶鋪蓋這時也不得不把馬匹遣送回卡瓦克隘口的大營。山脊頂端沒有路徑通到山下。外籍新娘們一屁股坐在地上,滑行下覆蓋著冰雪的山坡。帖木兒命令工匠製造一只柳條籃子,四個角落各繫著一根長達一百五十碼的纜繩。「朕此次御駕征,討伐不信眞主的異敎徒,早已抱定必死的決心,因此不畏艱險,坐進柳籃。」帖木兒在自傳中聲稱。


禁衛軍老隊長的家坐落在一個名叫亞斯納爾的村子,距離普沙爾鎭約莫半英里。村中只有幾間房舍散置在亂石堆和杏樹叢間。老隊長家的房子是一棟雙層搬家公司,屋頂鋪著薄薄一層瀝靑,上面壓著幾顆大石頭,以防屋子被風颳走。事實上,屋子的眞正主人是老隊長的女婿,在馬夫們的追隨下,我們汗流浹背爬上山坡走到村口時,屋主親自前來迎接我們,引領我們走進屋內。 老隊長的女婿名叫阿布杜,莫塔勒布,意思是「天使的奴隸」。就像普沙爾鎭上一些男人,他身上穿著白色的沙瓦爾褲,頭上纏著一條布巾,打扮成巴丹眺望脔外風闹人的模樣。他的五官非常圓潤柔和,臉上蓄著一部濃密鬈曲的鬍鬚,容貌看起來一點都不像我們遇見過的任何紐里斯坦人。(話說回來,沒有兩個紐里斯坦人長相是完全一樣的。〕 房屋的底樓被當作貯藏室使用。我們爬上一道石階,走到一座用樹幹支撐的平台上。門框頂端懸掛著一對高地山羊角,虎視眈眈,從牆壁上伸出來俯視著我們。就像我們在 紐里斯坦看到的其他房舍,老隊長的家給我的感覺是:它是一棟正在興建中猶未竣工的 房屋。進入平台的門戶部分圍起栅欄,門檻比平台高出一呎左右,因此整座門看起來更像一扇窗子。 跨過門檻,我們走進一間陰黯的廳房。廚房面對著門,裡頭閃爍著一團朦朦朧朧的火光。女主人看見一群陌生男人走進屋裡,趕緊放下手上的越南新娘價格活兒,慌張走避。我們穿過一個光線比較明亮的房間,裡頭只擺著一張破舊的木床,上面鋪著一塊用皮帶編織成的毯子,看起來很像印度的臥榻。接著,我們穿過一個空房間,進入平台上最後一個房間,這個房間開著一扇方形大窗,木製的窗板十分堅固,朝裡頭撐開,就像平台上的雙重門,窗板上裝飾著粗糙的橘黃色條紋圖案。地板是泥巴鋪的。柳技搭成的天花板框架,用幾根堅實的白楊木橫梁支撐,框架上覆蓋著冬靑懈的枯葉。(附近山腰上長滿冬靑獬。〕牆上懸掛著一支一九〇六年出廠的馬丁尼予利來福槍和一支毛瑟槍。這支毛瑟槍是馬爾地夫產品,十分笨重,槍管長達四呎。本地人管它叫「劫寨兒」。我們進入房間不久,一個小男孩就抱著一疊地毯和被單走進來,鋪在地板上。帶領我們到村子、一路上被修拳打腳踢的就是這個小潑皮。走出房間時,他忽然回過頭來,狠狠地瞪我們一眼。「這是我兒子!」主人阿布杜,莫塔勒布驕傲地說。過了 一會,小男孩又走進房間。這回,他捧著兩只裝著杏果的木碗,把一只放在修腳跟前。